Angkor Wat: A Journey To Ancient Cambodia

After a very enjoyable and eventful Vietnam trip (Read here) our next destination was Siem Reap. Siem Reap is a small city in North Cambodia, primarily a tourist destination known as the gateway to Angkor Wat, the 12th century Hindu Buddhist temple complex that is a world heritage site.

We reached Siem Reap airport late in the evening, and checked into Angkor Paradise Hotel. The hotel was in a busy area of the town with the main highway right in front. Many local restaurants were located around the hotel, but we preferred to eat at the hotel itself, that had lined up a special continental menu for us. The highlights of which were the Grilled Fish in Butter Sauce, and Caesar Salad with Prawn.

Next morning after breakfast, we started in our bus for Angkor Wat which was just about 6 km away. Angkor Wat complex is a huge 400 square km archeological site housing Hindu and Buddhist temples. Since we would be in in Siem Reap for two days as part of our itinerary, hence it was not possible to completely explore the complex. Our tour organizer and my friend Indranil of Travel with Neel told us that we would be covering most of the significant places in the complex, so we were looking forward a lot.  Our first destination was the main Angkor Wat temple.

Angkor Wat that broadly translates as “Temple City” is the biggest temple in the complex. We entered through the back gate (East entrance), this led to long galleries with many sculptures on the walls. An ancient temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the temple had been converted into a Buddhist shrine by the next king. There is an eight armed statue of Vishnu in one part of the temple, whereas Lord Buddha was present in full glory in another part of the temple. We climbed one of the main towers of the temple and it was a tough climb. Many people congregate early morning to Angkor Wat to watch the sunrise and the shadow of the temple in the lake in front. We too made a visit the next morning, but unluckily due to clouds, the Sun God did not oblige us. 

It was fascinating to learn about the spread of Hinduism is South-East Asia, and how alternate kings with different religions (Hindu and Buddhist) kept on changing the deities in the temples. It is heartening to see that Archaeological Survey of India is collaborating with the Cambodian government to restore some of the sites.

Our lunch was at a typical Cambodian restaurant Samroh Srahsrang Restaurant in Siem Reap. We enjoyed a set menu including Cambodia’s national dish Fish Amok, served inside a tender coconut shell, much the same way as we Bengali serve “Dab Chingri”. The coconut based gravy went well with the local rice. Cambodian cuisine has similarities with their neighbouring Thai cuisine, with Tom Yum Soup and Som Tai being popular dishes here. We tried a Fried Cashew Nut Chicken that tasted great too.

Talking about the beers of Cambodia, the most popular brand is “Angkor”. There is also a popular brand called “Hanuman”. God forbid if someone tried to launch a beer with the same name in India!

In the early evening we visited the South Gate of Angkor Thom, the capital of Khmer dynasty in the late 12th century. By the time reached Angkor Thom, it started raining and we had to cut short our trip for the day, and decided to come back there the next morning. 

After the rain subsided, we visited a Riverside Night Market, where you get clothes at ridiculous price. The Cambodian currency is Riel, and one Indian Rupee equals to about 46 Riels. Cotton shirts were available in the market at as low as Rs 150.

Siem Reap itself is a cute town with its own nightlife. It has couple of huge restaurants that have really large buffet and cultural programs showcasing local dance forms are presented during the dinner. Our dinner was at one such place named Morakot Angkor Restaurant. The restaurant has long dinner tables packed to full, each table accommodating close to hundred people. The buffet spread was huge with a great number of Asian delicacies. One local dance represented the culture of the local peasants, while another depicted a form of local martial arts. It was an enjoyable evening.

The next day, as mentioned above, our attempt to see sunrise at Angkor Wat was not a success.  Our next destination was Angkor Thom. The city of ruins has multiple temples. The main temple at Angkor Thom is Bayon, one of the first Buddhist temples at that site. There are huge smiling face sculptures on the temples, it is said it is the face of King Jayavarman (alternately some say it is Bodhisatwa), who built the temple. The temple also has a Shivling built in stone apart from statues of Lord Buddha.

The next place we visited was Bantey Srei, a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.  Ta Prohm was another temple we went to, where there was a plaque saying that the Archaeological Survey of India is helping in its restoration as part of “Indo-Cambodia Cooperation Project”. Ta Prohm means “Ancestor Brahma” , this was a temple dedicated to the King’s mother. Huge trees have taken roots in the ruins of the temple, making it an interesting location.

We visited another local restaurant Khmer Duerm Restaurant for food. The Stir Fried Sweet & Sour Fish and the Som Tam here were delicious.

We flew out of the Siem Reap Airport the next day. Given that we only had couple of days we could cover a few notable sites of Ankor. My feeling was that to cover Angkor in full you need at least five days. The airport at Siem Reap has a huge golden statue of four faced Brahma. Before our departure, we posed for a pic ibn front of the statue. Our next destination was Phuket. More on that later. 

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Two Pizza places that I absolutely loved in Bangalore

I am quite a frequent visitor to Bangalore as my son is based there. Our entire family has a common love of pizzas, so whenever we get together a few times in a year, we make it a point to visit a pizza restaurant at least once. During our recent trips to Bangalore, there are two specific places that I absolutely loved – Pizza 4P’s and Si Nonna’s. Both are very popular places where you mostly need a reservation to get a seat. And their pizzas really stand out, due to their specialities – cheese for the first and sourdough bread for the second.

Pizza 4P's: Burrata Salad Pizza

Pizza 4P’s is a Vietnamese chain of pizzerias. Originating in Vietnam, the chain has outlets in five countries. The only outlet in India is at Indiranagar, Bangalore. There is so much demand for this outlet that you need to book in advance, for the weekends, the reservation is often full, 2-3 weeks in advance.

The biggest attraction of this place is that they make their own cheese. They have a Cheese Lab on the top floor, where you can watch the preparation of various types of cheese. One of their signatures on the menu is the Assorted Cheese Platter that you can try out while waiting for your pizza to be prepared. Different varieties of cheese are served with pizza dough, and the net result is exceptional.

Assorted Cheese Platter at Pizza4P's

For couples and small group who want to try different pizzas, they have something called Half and Half, where two flavours are presented in one pizza. From the vegetarian lot, we tried the Burrata Salad pizza, with a blob of  burrata cheese, rocket leaves, veggies on olive and caper sauce. They have a non-vegetarian version of this pizza with Parma Ham too. The pizza was absolutely ravishing, with the cheese in the middle so fresh. 

The other interesting options in the vegetarian section seemed to be the Premium Mushroom and Eggplant Margherita.

From the non-vegetarian choices, we did a half and half of Garlic Shrimp (the sauce was Arrabiata) and Pepperoni. Apart from the cheese, a major differentiator at Pizza4P’s is that they have many oriental flavours on their pizzas too – Korean Bulgogi, Yakitori Chicken, Okonomiyaki being some examples. 

Pizza 4P's : Garlic Shrimp & Pepperoni

Apart from pizzas, they have some contemporary Italian dishes – Shrimp Arrabiata with Mascapone and Spaghetti, Mushroom Carbonara, and Japanese style Mushroom Pepperonchino are some that looked interesting.

The pizzeria is a fusion of Italian and oriental flavours. This, and their fresh cheese are stuff that make the restaurant interesting. The delightful service adds to the experience.

The second place I want to talk about is Si Nonna’s. It is an Indian chain of pizzeria with multiple outlets in Mumbai, Pune, Bangalore, Surat and Ahmedabad. Bangalore has quite a few branches, and the nearest one for us was Koramangala. It was a weeknight and the pizzeria was full, but we were lucky to get a table easily.

Si Nonna’s is known for its Neapolitan pizzas, and is especially liked for its sourdough bases that are made in-house. They brand their pizzas as “The Original Sourdough Pizza”.

Si Nonna's: Spicy Chicken & Jalapeno

The pizzas here are soft and fluffy giving it a unique taste. The menu made interesting reading with the pizza varieties numbers 1 through 10. They also have a variety of oven baked starters – we ordered a Spicy Chicken & Jalapeno that had mozzarella and parmesan cheese. Served with bread, it was a delightful start to our meal.

Si Nonna's No 4 (Fior De Latte Mozzarella, Ricotta, Blue Cheese & Parmasan with a topping of cherry tomato and basil)

The pizzas that we requisitioned were No 4 (Fior De Latte Mozzarella, Ricotta, Blue Cheese & Parmasan with a topping of cherry tomato and basil), a vegetarian cheese-rich beauty and No 10 with cheese variants and Belgian Pork Bacon topping. The combination was much appreciated one being cheesy, and the other meaty, with the thin crust sourdough base providing an ideal foil to the toppings. It was indeed a very interesting meal with Peach Tea to go along with it.

Si Nonna's No 10 with cheese variants and Belgian Pork Bacon topping

The other pizzas that may be worth a try includes No 5 (Mushroom and Mushroom cream with assorted cheese) and for chicken lovers No 7 (Chicken Pepperoni with Mozzarella)

Service here is good too, my son owing to multiple visits knew the wait staff by name. This helped too.

Bangalore has many other big names in pizzas like Toscano, Chianti and Brick Oven. Look forward to exploring them soon.



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5 New Restaurants to Try Out in Hyderabad

Hyderabad is witnessing a boom in the new restaurants that are starting out. Some are absolutely new concepts, while others are new branches of already successful brands. Here are five places that have opened up in the last few months that have impressed me. Some are cafes, some are restobars while some are fine dine places.


1. Lazeez Affaire

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Vacationing in Vietnam: Hanoi and Halong Bay

From serene Da Nang we flew into Hanoi, the capital city of Vietnam. The first look of Hanoi felt it was kind of an old city, compared to the glitzy Saigon and surreal Da Nang. 

Read: Da Nang and Hoi An Travelogue

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Vacationing in Vietnam: Da Nang and Hoi An

Ho Chi Minh City gave us a very good first impression of Vietnam. The people came across as diligent and hardworking, and the country seemed to have made significant progress in the four decades after the war. We were at the chaotic Ho Chi Minh airport for the trip to Da Nang where for the first time the experience was not so good. Our flight was delayed by couple of hours, and there was no way one could get to know the status. Vietjet the premier private airline of Vietnam seemed to be much worse than our Indigo in handling customers.

Also Read: Travelogue of Ho Chi Minh City

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Vacationing in Vietnam – Ho Chi Minh City

Any Bengali kid of my generation is very familiar with the name Vietnam. In 1960s and 70s, when the Viet Cong was fighting the French, and then the Americans, there used to be lot of sympathies for the Vietnamese guerrillas in Bengal. In fact, many of the walls in our neighbourhood were plastered with the slogan “Amar Naam Tomar Naam Vietnam” (my name, your name is Vietnam). Wrestler Muhammad Ali used to be a hero, when he said “I ain’t got no quarrel with Viet Cong” and went to jail in the United States for refusing to fight in Vietnam for the United States Army.  

Cafe Apartment in Ho Chi Minh City

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Haleem Trail: Subhan Bakery

While we have well-known Haleem brands doing bumper business during Ramzan in Hyderabad,  new entrants to the scene has a tough time building up a brand. Though a segment with low entry barriers, reputation plays a big role in consumer choice. One of the recent successes in the Haleem arena is Subhan Bakery whose product has made rapid strides in popularity.

Read: Subhan Bakery: Keeping Hyderabadi bakery traditions alive

Subhan Bakery is not a new name in Hyderabad food scene though. Operating from 1940s, it is known for its Osmania biscuits, and of course Dum Ke Roat, the Muharram speciality of Hyderabad is synonymous with them. During Muharram, a big queue is seen at their outlet in Nampally, of people patiently waiting to buy the roat. I know Syed Irfan, the owner of the bakery, and he is one of the most knowledgeable persons about Hyderabadi food.

Read: Dum Ke Roat: The Muharram special cookies

In 2023, Subhan also started to offer Haleem. With ingredients such as goat meat, pure ghee, daliya as well as select spices and dry fruits, a lot of attention was given to source quality stuff from reputed suppliers.   I have had the opportunity to taste it over the last three years, and surely it is one of the top choices among the commercial setups selling Haleem. The Haleem is replete with ghee, the ingredients are well blended together and the wheat-meat ratio is quite high. Also, it has very very few bones, that too small, as a result you get your value’s worth when you buy a particular size. The packaging is also great with sealed container, so that if you plan to carry it to another location, you have no trouble at all.

With these plus points, it is no wonder that the Haleem has made to most of the lists of top go-to places during the holy month. I would advise anyone to visit them during Ramzan and try their best-of-breed Haleem.



Back To: The Haleem Trail

Contact:
Subhan Bakery
11-6-467, Nampally Market, Devi Bagh, Bazar Ghat, 
Lakdikapul, Hyderabad, Telangana 500001
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Quick Bytes: Oh! Calcutta completes 25 years in Hyderabad

If we analyze the usual food festivals organized in large cities of India, especially of Indian regional cuisines, you will notice a pattern. Punjabi is by far the most popular one, followed by Bengali and Goan. The same holds for Indian regional restaurants. Bengali food is among the well-accepted cuisines of the country whereas the other Eastern regional cuisines like Assamese, Bihari, Odia are lagging quite behind in popularity. And, if I have to name one crusader who has popularized the cuisine both in Indian metros and abroad, it is Mr Anjan Chatterjee, the Managing Director of Speciality Restaurants. His brand Oh! Calcutta has brought Bengali cuisine to most major metros, as well as to London with a restaurant named Chourangi.

Oh! Calcutta completed 25 years of operation recently in Hyderabad, not a mean feat as most Bengali restaurants here did not last beyond 3 to 5 years. To celebrate this occasion, the restaurant chain organized an event in Hyderabad, where Mr Phiroz Sadri their Executive Director, talked about its past, present and future plans. A new menu was unveiled with quite a few new items to commemorate the occasion. Mr Sadri patiently explained all the new offerings as well as talked about certain important ingredients of Bengali cuisine that were on display.

Calcutta (or Kolkata now) had been the capital of British India for a long time, and there were some British dishes that were adopted and localized into Bengali cuisine. A few of these were on offer some with a small Oh! Calcutta tweak. Anglo Indian Chicken Cutlet and Aam Adar Grilled Fish are couple of them that come to mind immediately. From the Islamic cuisine of Bengal, we have the Mutton Tikia as well as an innovative Jackfruit Tikki.

Steamed dishes wrapped in banana leaves are another set of sought after dishes from Bengal.  Aam Achar Maccher Paturi, Ilish Paturi, and Kashundi Narkel Paneer Paturi are a few of the new ones added.  Lebu Pata diye Murgir Jhol is a comfort runny curry of chicken with flavours from lime leaves that goes well with steamed rice.

The prawn family is adequately represented in two dishes, Chingri Machher Malai Curry, and Daab Chingri. The presentation of the latter is a feast to the eyes. Radha Tilak Chingri Pulav prepared with prawns and Bengal’s own Radha Tilak rice is also a new addition. 

For Hilsa lovers, now you have Steamed Boneless Hilsa on the menu, the dish will find a lot of takers.  For vegetarians, Mochhar Ghonto and Rajbarir Chhanar Kofta are couple of dishes to look forward to. Badi Chura an Odia border dish has also been added to the menu. To its repertoire of Bengali breads of luchi, and parota, Petai Parota, where a large paratha is beaten and crushed into smaller pieces is an interesting new entry.

Kancha Lonka diye Anarash Chutney, Baked Rosogolla and Channar Malpoa bring up the grand finale to the course by course meal that would titillate the taste buds of Bengalis and non-Bengalis alike. 


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