We were expecting heavy rains when we planned our short trip to Pondicherry in August. But the weather Gods were kind to us, and barring some cloudy skies, the rain stayed away for most of our stay.
Though this was not my first trip to Pondicherry, I was looking forward to the stay on the beach. Sea Gadabout, our hotel, was at one end of Rock Beach (near the landmark Park Ashram Guest House) and our room had a clear view of the sea in front. Waking up to the sunrise on the Bay of Bengal was a great way to start the day. And before we knew it, the three days had gone off like a flash.
Pondicherry is an interesting place. The French influence is visible everywhere in the White Town, in the architecture, the names of the streets and even in the food. At the same time, it remains very much a Tamil city, with its own culture, cuisine and way of life. Add to this the spiritual connection of the Aurobindo Ashram and Auroville, the beaches and the remnants of a much older history, and there is quite a bit to explore.
One of our first stops was the Aurobindo Ashram. We walked around the area and spent some quiet time there. The Ashram is perhaps the most recognizable symbol of Pondicherry's spiritual heritage, and the atmosphere around it is quite different from the more touristy parts of the city. We also had the Prasad (both breakfast and lunch), which was a simple but satisfying part of the experience. A small bit of information, you need to visit the Bureau office near the Cottage showroom the previous day to procure passes for the next day’s Prasad. A coupon for breakfast, lunch and dinner is just Rs 50, but availability is limited mostly for devotees residing in Aurobindo Ashram guest houses. However, the volunteers have the discretion to accommodate outsiders too. It is an experience not to be missed out.
All our evenings were at the seafront, the place we enjoyed the most. The Pondicherry Promenade is a wonderful place to spend time, particularly in the early mornings and evenings. The sea on one side and the old buildings and landmarks on the other make for a very pleasant stroll. We found the seafront remarkably clean and well maintained, and it was a pleasure simply to walk along the coast, enjoying the breeze and watching the waves. The road is well-paved and clean and throughout the 24 hours, no vehicle is allowed on this beachside road.
For me, the seafront is perhaps the most charming part of Pondicherry. There is no particular need to have an agenda here. You can simply walk, sit by the sea and watch the world go by.
Next day, we moved to the backwaters. A boat trip from the Marina Harbour Jetty took us through the backwaters surrounded by mangrove forests, offering a different perspective of Pondicherry. Away from the bustle of the town, the one hour ride costing Rs 500 per person was peaceful and scenic. Pondicherry's waterways, the harbour and mangrove forests are an important part of its character, although they tend to get overshadowed by the more famous French Quarter and seafront. Another part of this interesting excursion was to the ruins of Arikamedu, where the boats stop for a brief while allowing you to see the ruins. The place was an ancient trading settlement and has been associated with maritime trade between India and the Roman world. Walking through the ruins, it was difficult not to wonder about the activity that must once have existed here. Arikamedu also reminded us that Pondicherry's history goes back much further than its French colonial past.
A visit to Auroville was another highlight. It is an incredibly peaceful campus with greenery all around. As planned we were taken to the Inner Meditation Chamber and could spent some time there. The atmosphere was peaceful and introspective, and the experience was quite different from the usual sightseeing trip. Auroville has always attracted people looking for a different kind of spiritual and community experience, and even a short visit gives one some sense of that.
Please note that access to the meditation hall is restricted and a limited number of passes are released. You have to apply at the Auroville site online 4 days before. You are given a confirmation on email that you need to carry with you.
And then there was the food. Pondicherry's food is an interesting reflection of its history. The French influence has resulted in a cuisine that is quite different from what you would normally associate with Tamil Nadu. French-style restaurants are often housed in charming old bungalows, and the setting adds considerably to the experience. At the same time, the local Tamil food remains very much a part of the city's culinary identity. We made it a point to experience both. The experiences ranged from French cuisine and seafood to traditional Tamil non-vegetarian food, and I plan to write about the food trail separately.
Three days in Pondicherry went off like a flash. What I liked most about Pondicherry was the variety without the need to rush. You can spend a morning exploring its history, an afternoon by the water and an evening walking along the promenade. You can have French food for one meal and a Tamil mess meal the next.
It is this unusual combination of the French and the Tamil, the spiritual and the seaside, the old and the contemporary, that gives Pondicherry its unique character.
Our short trip certainly left us wanting more. Perhaps the next visit should be a little longer.
