Hyderabad is no stranger to culinary diversity, but one food culture that has been keeping a low profile in the city is that of Northeast India.
From the seven sister states, Northeastern cuisine brings together flavours and cooking traditions that are quite different from the familiar Indian restaurant repertoire. Smoked meats, fermented ingredients, bamboo shoot, black sesame, perilla, indigenous greens and rice-based preparations feature prominently, creating a cuisine that is earthy, aromatic and often wonderfully rustic.
A few places have been opening and closing in Hyderabad serving food from the North Eastern states. A decade back there was a small Naga restaurant near Hyderabad Central University. Then there was a Mizo place near KPHB. But none of them survivedfor a very long time. Zing at Kothaguda was another I used to like in the pre Covid days.
Aakhol, a very promising restaurant is now at Kokapet, serving Assamese food. The reviews have been good so far.
But another format that has been bringing North-Eastern food to the plate here in Hyderabad has been the pop-ups in star hotels. Home Chefs and invited chefs from outside the city have been bringing across some really good stuff in these festivals.
Over the past few weeks, I had the opportunity to experience two such food showcases in Hyderabad. One brought together flavours from Assam, Meghalaya and Nagaland, while the other focused exclusively on the food heritage of Meghalaya.
Both were very different experiences, but together they offered an interesting glimpse into the extraordinary culinary diversity of Northeast India. Black sesame, bamboo shoot, banana flower, fierce chillies and black rice appeared in different forms across the menu, demonstrating how indigenous ingredients can define the identity of a cuisine.
Assam, Meghalaya & Nagaland Cuisine at Mimung, Mercure Hyderabad KCP
At the end of August, Chef Debjani Bagchi brought the flavours of Assam, Meghalaya and Nagaland to Mercure Hyderabad KCP with an elaborate spread of Northeastern favourites, at a popup called Mimung.
Chef Debjani is quite popular as a home chef in the city. Having enjoyed Chef Debjani's food, especially the pork dishes, several times earlier, I already knew that this was going to be an interesting meal. And the tasting table certainly didn't disappoint.
One of the dishes that immediately caught my attention was Bilahi Masur Tenga, the Assamese-style preparation combining lentils with the characteristic tanginess of tomato.
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| Fried Pork Spare Ribs |
The Fried Pork Spare Ribs were another highlight for me, while the Smoked Pork with Axone & Eromba brought together two very distinctive elements of Northeastern cooking—smoked meat and fermented flavours.
The accompaniments were equally fascinating. Sidol Shutki, made with fermented dried fish, and Dry Beef Chutney provided intense, concentrated flavours that worked particularly well alongside the main dishes.
Dessert took us in a completely different direction with Black Rice Payokh. The use of black rice gave the traditional rice pudding a distinctive character and made it a memorable way to finish the meal.
What I particularly enjoyed about Chef Debjani's spread was that it went beyond simply presenting unfamiliar dishes. It offered a glimpse into the ingredients, preservation techniques and flavour profiles that define Northeastern cooking.
The food at Mercure Hyderabad KCP travelled across Assam, Meghalaya and Nagaland, bringing together smoked pork, fermented ingredients, tangy preparations, chutneys and distinctive accompaniments.
Meghalaya Unveiled at Sheraton Hyderabad
Just about two weeks later, another Northeastern food showcase arrived in Hyderabad, this time focusing entirely on Meghalaya.
“Meghalaya Unveiled – Heritage on a Buffet” at Feast, Sheraton Hyderabad Hotel, brought together earthy, smoky, fermented and warming flavours inspired by the land, people and traditions of Meghalaya.
Chef Nambie Marak, MasterChef India 2023 runner-up, has spent years documenting and sharing Meghalaya's cuisine and promoting the state's food heritage. The spread was extensive, but two dishes stood out for me immediately.
The Chicken Jadoh was fabulous. A traditional Khasi preparation of rice and meat, it is the sort of dish that demonstrates how much character can be achieved through relatively simple ingredients.
The Momo Gujiya was another particularly enjoyable creation, combining the familiar idea of a momo with a distinctly different presentation.
There was plenty more to explore. Chicken Kapa, Perilla Salad, Bamboo Shoot Pickle, Banana Flower Vegetable and Moringa Dal brought together a fascinating range of ingredients and preparations.
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| Chicken Kapa |
The Black Sesame Chicken was another dish that showcased the distinctive flavours of Meghalaya, while the Pumpkin & Fish Curry and Chicken & Potato Curry provided further examples of the region's diverse home-style cooking traditions.
The Black Rice Malpooa was an interesting take on the familiar Indian sweet, while the Black Sesame Ice Cream was a particularly distinctive finish.
The Sheraton showcase, on the other hand, concentrated on Meghalaya, allowing the ingredients and cooking traditions of one state to take centre stage.
What struck me about these two experiences was the sheer difference between the dishes, despite both falling under the broad umbrella of Northeastern Indian cuisine. And that perhaps is the most important takeaway. There is no single thing called “Northeastern cuisine.”
The region encompasses numerous states, communities, ingredients and culinary traditions. Assam has its own food identity; Meghalaya has its Khasi, Jaintia and Garo influences; Nagaland has its distinctive smoked and fermented preparations—and these are only a few examples.
For Hyderabad's food lovers, pop-ups such as these provide an opportunity to experience that diversity without having to travel to the Northeast.
Northeastern food is gradually finding its place on Hyderabad's culinary map—and hopefully, we will see much more of it in the city.